Chazuke (Japanese Rice/tea/salmon Soup)

Place rice in large bowl. Cut raw fish against the grain into paper thin strips and arrange on top of rice. Put small mound of wasabi atop fish. Toast nori by passing it over a flame; then cut it or crumble it into shreds and sprinkle over fish and rice. Pour hot tea into bowl. Serves immediately.

As you can see, Tsuji's servings are twice as big as Andoh's. I have never made either recipe. In general, I have found Andoh's cookbook to be very reliable; all of her recipes work. Tsuji's book is more comprehensive and a must-have if you are going to make Japanese cooking a serious hobby, but most of his recipes require a little fiddling with amounts and proportions before they come out right. A good very basic Japanese cookbook is Kuwako Takahashi's _The_Joy_Of_Japanese_Cooking (Shufunotomo/Japan 1986), but she doesn't have recipes for Chazuke or Zosui.

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(JESSICA LITMAN)