Aziza Benchekroun's Five-Day Preserved Lemon Special

Wolfert writes: "If you run out of preserved lemons, or decide on just a few day's notice to cook a chicken, lamb, or fish dish with lemons and olives and need preserved lemons in a hurry, you can use this quick five-day method taught to me by a Moroccan diplomat's wife. Lemons preserved this way will not keep, but are perfectly acceptable in an emergency."

With a razor blade, make 8 fine 2" vertical incisions around the peel of each lemon to be used. (Do not cut deeper than the membrane that protects the pulp.) Place the incised lemons in a stainless-steel saucepan with plenty of salt and water to cover and boil until the peels become very soft. Place in a clean jar, covered with cooled cooking liquor, and leave to pickle for approximately 5 days.